Gangtok in 3 days: what to see, in what order

A viewpoint on the hill road north of town, about 8 km from MG Marg. On a clear morning you see Kanchenjunga and the snow peaks around it across the valley.

Tip: Clouds usually roll in by late morning, so it comes first in every plan. If the peaks are hidden, the drive is still worth it for the valley.

A Hanuman temple on a hilltop above Gangtok, looked after by the Indian Army. It is clean and quiet, and the terrace looks out over the town and, on clear days, Kanchenjunga.

Tip: The cab stops below the temple and there are steps up. The army asks visitors to keep it quiet and to take shoes off at the door.

A large zoo spread over a forested hill opposite Ganesh Tok. The animals live in big open enclosures on the slope: red panda, snow leopard, Himalayan black bear and barking deer among them. A road runs up through it past the enclosures.

Tip: The park is big and on a steep slope, so most visitors go round the inside road by cab rather than on foot. Closed on Thursdays.

A tiny Ganesh temple perched on a ridge, so small that only a few people fit inside at once. Prayer flags cover the railings, and the viewing deck looks over the whole of Gangtok.

Tip: It is right across the road from the zoo gate, so the two go together.

A tall waterfall right beside the road to Tashi View Point. There is a small viewing area with a bridge, so it is a short photo stop rather than a walk.

Tip: It is on the way back from Tashi View, so it costs only a few minutes. In the dry months, from about February to April, it is thin.

A Buddhist monastery of the Nyingma order, about 3 km from MG Marg, set among tall pines. The prayer hall is painted inside with gods and guardians, and the masked Chaam dances are held here in winter.

Tip: Dress modestly, walk round the monastery clockwise and ask before taking photos inside the prayer hall.

A glasshouse of orchids, ferns and seasonal flowers on the Ridge, a few minutes above MG Marg. The Ridge Park outside is a quiet strip of garden with benches and old trees.

Tip: It is small, so 45 minutes is plenty. It is close enough to MG Marg to walk on a free evening, but the glasshouse shuts at about 17:00.

A glacial lake at about 3,750 m, about 40 km from Gangtok on the road to Nathu La. Steep bare mountains ring the water, which freezes in winter. Yak rides and tea stalls line the shore.

Tip: Everyone needs a permit, arranged by a registered tour operator or Sikkim Tourism a day ahead with an original photo ID and two passport photos. Aadhaar is not accepted. Children under 5 cannot go. It is cold and thin-aired at any time of year, so bring a warm jacket.

A mountain pass at about 4,300 m on the India and China border, about 17 km past Tsomgo. From the Indian viewpoint you look across the fence to the Chinese side, with bare peaks all round. Soldiers often chat with visitors, and there is a small memorial.

Tip: For Indian nationals only, with its own permit on top of the Tsomgo one, booked a day ahead through a registered tour operator. Closed on Mondays and Tuesdays. If you cannot go, the cab drives straight from Tsomgo to Baba Mandir and the day is shorter. The air is thin: walk slowly and do not run up the steps.

An army shrine to Harbhajan Singh, a soldier who died near Nathu La in 1968 and who soldiers here believe still guards the border. The shrine keeps his room, uniform and boots, and the army runs a small tea stall.

Tip: It is about 17 km past Tsomgo and needs the same permit. Foreign nationals may only go as far as Tsomgo, so this stop is for Indian nationals.

A museum and research library in a traditional Sikkimese building at Deorali. It holds old Buddhist statues, thangka paintings, masks and rare manuscripts, and it is one of the best places in India to see Tibetan Buddhist art.

Tip: Closed on Sundays and second Saturdays. Photos are not allowed inside the museum.

A large white stupa with a golden top, built in 1945, ringed by 108 prayer wheels. Next to it is a small monastery school and a hall with two big statues of Guru Rinpoche.

Tip: It is a few minutes from the Institute of Tibetology and the ropeway station, so the three go together. Turn the prayer wheels clockwise as you walk round.

A cable car that runs about 1 km from Deorali up to Tashiling, near the Secretariat, with a stop on the way. The cabin gives a wide view over the town and the valley below.

Tip: Ride up and back down from Deorali, where the cab waits; the round trip takes about 20 minutes plus the queue. Tickets are about Rs 110 to 170.

The largest monastery in Sikkim and the main seat of the Karmapa's Kagyu order outside Tibet. It sits on a hill across the valley from Gangtok, with a big courtyard, a richly painted prayer hall and a golden stupa behind it.

Tip: Carry an original photo ID: it is checked at the gate and again further up. The last stretch to the monastery is a walk up a slope from where cabs stop.

A landscaped park round a tall waterfall, about 8 km from town. Paths and footbridges cross the stream, and statues tell the story of the Banjhakri, the forest shaman of Sikkim's old beliefs.

Tip: There is an entry ticket (about Rs 50). The paths have steps and can be wet near the falls, so wear shoes with grip.