Two days covers Gangtok well. Day one is the town: Tashi View Point, Hanuman Tok, Ganesh Tok, Enchey, Banjhakri Falls, the Institute of Tibetology and the ropeway, about 45 km. Day two goes up to Tsomgo Lake, Nathu La and Baba Mandir, about 124 km, leaving at about 08:00. Book the permits on day one, keep day one off a Sunday, and day two off a Monday or Tuesday, when Nathu La closes.
Tashi View Point first, while the mountains are clearest, then Hanuman Tok, Ganesh Tok and Enchey Monastery, Banjhakri Falls with lunch, and in the afternoon the Institute of Tibetology, Do Drul Chorten and the ropeway at Deorali. About 45 km by cab, back near MG Marg by about 16:00. Not on a Sunday, when the Institute of Tibetology closes.
A viewpoint on the hill road north of town, about 8 km from MG Marg. On a clear morning you see Kanchenjunga and the snow peaks around it across the valley.
Tip: Clouds usually roll in by late morning, so it comes first in every plan. If the peaks are hidden, the drive is still worth it for the valley.
A Hanuman temple on a hilltop above Gangtok, looked after by the Indian Army. It is clean and quiet, and the terrace looks out over the town and, on clear days, Kanchenjunga.
Tip: The cab stops below the temple and there are steps up. The army asks visitors to keep it quiet and to take shoes off at the door.
A tiny Ganesh temple perched on a ridge, so small that only a few people fit inside at once. Prayer flags cover the railings, and the viewing deck looks over the whole of Gangtok.
Tip: It is right across the road from the zoo gate, so the two go together.
A Buddhist monastery of the Nyingma order, about 3 km from MG Marg, set among tall pines. The prayer hall is painted inside with gods and guardians, and the masked Chaam dances are held here in winter.
Tip: Dress modestly, walk round the monastery clockwise and ask before taking photos inside the prayer hall.
A landscaped park round a tall waterfall, about 8 km from town. Paths and footbridges cross the stream, and statues tell the story of the Banjhakri, the forest shaman of Sikkim's old beliefs.
Tip: There is an entry ticket (about Rs 50). The paths have steps and can be wet near the falls, so wear shoes with grip.
A museum and research library in a traditional Sikkimese building at Deorali. It holds old Buddhist statues, thangka paintings, masks and rare manuscripts, and it is one of the best places in India to see Tibetan Buddhist art.
Tip: Closed on Sundays and second Saturdays. Photos are not allowed inside the museum.
A large white stupa with a golden top, built in 1945, ringed by 108 prayer wheels. Next to it is a small monastery school and a hall with two big statues of Guru Rinpoche.
Tip: It is a few minutes from the Institute of Tibetology and the ropeway station, so the three go together. Turn the prayer wheels clockwise as you walk round.
A cable car that runs about 1 km from Deorali up to Tashiling, near the Secretariat, with a stop on the way. The cabin gives a wide view over the town and the valley below.
Tip: Ride up and back down from Deorali, where the cab waits; the round trip takes about 20 minutes plus the queue. Tickets are about Rs 110 to 170.
Up the Nathu La road to Tsomgo Lake, on to the Nathu La border pass, then lunch and Baba Harbhajan Singh Mandir on the way back. About 124 km in a Sikkim permit taxi, leaving at about 08:00. The times here are for a clear road: with army checkposts and the slow climb, expect to be back an hour or two after the 15:10 shown. Everyone needs a Tsomgo permit; Nathu La has its own, for Indian nationals only. Book both a day ahead. Nathu La is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays; on those days, or for foreign visitors, the day is Tsomgo only.
A glacial lake at about 3,750 m, about 40 km from Gangtok on the road to Nathu La. Steep bare mountains ring the water, which freezes in winter. Yak rides and tea stalls line the shore.
Tip: Everyone needs a permit, arranged by a registered tour operator or Sikkim Tourism a day ahead with an original photo ID and two passport photos. Aadhaar is not accepted. Children under 5 cannot go. It is cold and thin-aired at any time of year, so bring a warm jacket.
A mountain pass at about 4,300 m on the India and China border, about 17 km past Tsomgo. From the Indian viewpoint you look across the fence to the Chinese side, with bare peaks all round. Soldiers often chat with visitors, and there is a small memorial.
Tip: For Indian nationals only, with its own permit on top of the Tsomgo one, booked a day ahead through a registered tour operator. Closed on Mondays and Tuesdays. If you cannot go, the cab drives straight from Tsomgo to Baba Mandir and the day is shorter. The air is thin: walk slowly and do not run up the steps.
An army shrine to Harbhajan Singh, a soldier who died near Nathu La in 1968 and who soldiers here believe still guards the border. The shrine keeps his room, uniform and boots, and the army runs a small tea stall.
Tip: It is about 17 km past Tsomgo and needs the same permit. Foreign nationals may only go as far as Tsomgo, so this stop is for Indian nationals.
Drive times come from road routing without traffic. Gangtok's roads are steep, narrow and winding, many run one way, and the Tsomgo road has army checkposts and landslide repairs, so allow extra time on every drive, most of all on the Tsomgo day. Opening hours marked ? are not yet confirmed, so check them before you go.
Call or message a local Gangtok operator with this plan. Tell them your hotel and dates, and they send a price for the car and driver.
The hours we planned around. Check before you go on a public holiday.
| Place | Open | Best time | Visit |
|---|---|---|---|
| Tashi View Point | Open-air viewpoint; go in daylight, best early? | Early morning, when Kanchenjunga is most often clear of cloud. | 30 min |
| Hanuman Tok | About 07:00 to 17:00; listings differ (one says 05:00 to 19:00)? | Morning, for the clearest view of the mountains. | 30 min |
| Ganesh Tok | About 06:00 to 19:00 | Any time; clear mornings have the best view. | 30 min |
| Enchey Monastery | Plan 09:00 to 16:00; the district site says 06:00 to 16:00, listings 09:00 to 17:00? | Morning, when the monks hold prayers. | 30 min |
| Banjhakri Falls and Energy Park | About 08:00 to 18:00 in most listings; plan 09:00 to 17:00 | Late morning to mid afternoon, after the monsoon for the fullest falls. | 1 h |
| Namgyal Institute of Tibetology | 10:00 to 16:00; closed Sundays, second Saturdays and Sikkim government holidays | Any time it is open. | 1 h |
| Do Drul Chorten | About 08:00 to 17:00 | Morning or late afternoon. | 30 min |
| Gangtok Ropeway (Deorali station) | About 09:30 to 16:30; shut for maintenance for a few weeks around late November to mid December | A clear afternoon. | 45 min |
| Tsomgo (Changu) Lake | About 09:00 or 10:00 to 16:00; needs a permit; the road closes after heavy snow | Morning; cloud and cold wind come up in the afternoon. Frozen from about January to March. | 2 h |
| Nathu La | About 08:00 to 15:00 (some listings say 16:00 or 18:00); closed Mondays and Tuesdays; often shut by snow from about December to March | Late morning, before the afternoon cloud and wind. Usually open from about April to November. | 1 h |
| Baba Harbhajan Singh Mandir | No published hours; visited on the Tsomgo permit day? | Late morning, after Tsomgo. | 45 min |
Viewpoints, monasteries and the ropeway
See the 1-day plan →Tashi View, the zoo and Enchey · Tsomgo Lake, Nathu La and Baba Mandir · Tibetology, the ropeway and Rumtek
See the 3-day plan →Every sight with what to see, opening times and how long to stay.
See all places →The Tsomgo and Nathu La permits are usually arranged a day ahead, so the operator can sort them out while you see the town. If the road is closed by snow or a landslide, or day two falls on a Monday or Tuesday, you can swap the days.
Yes, for the town, Tsomgo and Nathu La. Add a third day for the zoo and Rumtek Monastery.
Your original photo ID for the checkposts, a warm jacket, a cap and sunglasses. Tsomgo is at about 3,750 m and Nathu La at about 4,300 m, so walk slowly and drink water.