Dharamshala in 3 days: what to see, in what order

An old Shiva temple in Bhagsu village, 2 km east of McLeodganj, with two stone pools fed by a mountain spring. From the temple a paved path climbs about 1.5 km to the Bhagsu waterfall, which drops down a rock face above the village. There are small cafés along the way.

The main temple of the Dalai Lama, who lives next door. The complex holds a large gold Buddha, the Namgyal Monastery and a courtyard where young monks debate with loud claps. Pilgrims walk the kora, a path round the hill with prayer wheels and flags.

A grey stone church from 1852, in deodar forest on the road between McLeodganj and the Dharamshala cantonment. It has Belgian stained-glass windows, and Lord Elgin, a Viceroy of India who died here in 1863, is buried in the churchyard.

A small lake ringed by deodar trees on the road from McLeodganj to Naddi, with a Shiva temple on its bank. It is shallow and can be low on water before the monsoon. A fair is held here in early September.

A village at the top of the road above McLeodganj, with the best view in town of the Dhauladhar range. The snow peaks look close enough to touch, and the Kangra valley falls away on the other side. Cafés along the road have terraces facing the peaks.

The story of Tibet and its people in exile, told with photos, films and objects. Since 2022 it has been in a new building in Gangchen Kyishong, the Tibetan government's campus halfway down the hill, next to the Library of Tibetan Works and Archives.

A small state museum in Kotwali Bazaar, the main market of lower Dharamshala. It shows Kangra miniature paintings, the fine, bright court paintings this valley is known for, along with old coins, wood carving and tribal dress.

A memorial garden in pine forest at the entrance to Dharamshala, for the soldiers of Himachal who died in India's wars. The names are cut into black stone panels round a tall monument, and there is a small museum.

One of the highest international cricket grounds in the world, at about 1,450 m, with the Dhauladhar range rising straight behind the stands. India has played Tests, one-day games and IPL matches here.

A centre for Tibetan arts in Japanese-style gardens with streams and small bridges, near Sidhbari. You can watch thangka painters, wood carvers and metal workers at work, see a temple with a large gold Buddha, and visit a doll museum of Tibetan dress.

A large monastery in Sidhbari, home to monks known for their deep, low chanting. The big prayer hall has a gold Buddha, and the building stands in front of the Dhauladhar snow peaks.

A big temple to the goddess Chamunda on the bank of the Baner river, about 15 km south-east of Dharamshala. It is one of the main pilgrim temples of Kangra, with a Shiva cave shrine and ghats by the river.

One of the oldest forts in India, on a ridge where the Banganga and Majhi rivers meet below Kangra town. Rajas, Mughals and Sikhs all held it. Much of it fell in the 1905 earthquake, but the gates, walls and temples on top still stand. The Maharaja Sansar Chand Museum is a few minutes' walk from the gate.

The main temple of Kangra town, to the goddess Vajreshwari, with silver-plated doors and a courtyard full of bells. It is one of the Shakti Peeths, and the lanes leading to it are lined with stalls selling offerings.