Darjeeling in 2 days: what to see, in what order

A hilltop at about 2,590 m, 11 km from town, where people gather before dawn to watch the first light turn Kanchenjunga pink and then gold. On a very clear day you can see Everest far to the west. There is a viewing building with paid seats and a free open deck.

Tip: Cabs need a Tiger Hill coupon, issued a day ahead, so book the cab the day before. Self-drive and rental cars are not allowed up. It is freezing before dawn, even in summer, so wear warm layers.

The oldest Tibetan Buddhist monastery in the Darjeeling hills, built in 1850 at Ghum. Its prayer hall holds a 15 foot statue of Maitreya, the Buddha who is still to come, and old books and paintings.

Tip: Ask the driver for the old Ghoom Monastery, Yiga Choeling: there are other monasteries in Ghum. Entry is free; there may be a small fee for photos inside.

A spiral where the toy train loops round a garden to climb the hill. In the middle stands the Gorkha war memorial, and the garden looks straight across to Kanchenjunga.

Tip: There is a small entry ticket (about Rs 30 to 50). If you want to see the train go round, ask the driver about joy-ride times: trains pass a few times a day.

A small Japanese Buddhist temple where visitors can join the drum prayers, and next to it the white Peace Pagoda, with golden statues of the Buddha set into its sides. From the pagoda's terrace you see the town and, on clear days, the snow peaks.

Tip: Cars now stop a short walk below the gate, about five minutes on foot. Entry is free. Keep quiet in the temple during prayers.

Terraced gardens built round a mountain stream that drops over the rocks in a series of small falls. Paths and steps climb beside the water, with tea gardens on the slopes around.

Tip: It is about 10 km below town on a very steep, narrow road with sharp bends. Ganga Maya Park is 3 km further down if you want more of the same.

One of the oldest tea gardens in Darjeeling, on the slope just below town. You can walk among the bushes and take a guided tour of the factory to see how the leaves are withered, rolled and dried, then taste the tea.

Tip: Closed on Sundays and Mondays. From December to February there is no plucking or processing, so the factory is quiet.

The Padmaja Naidu Himalayan Zoological Park keeps snow leopards, red pandas, Tibetan wolves and Himalayan black bears. The Himalayan Mountaineering Institute shares the grounds. Its museum tells the story of Everest climbs, with Tenzing Norgay's gear, and his grave is just outside.

Tip: One ticket covers the zoo, the mountaineering museum and the small natural history museum. Closed on Thursdays. The grounds are on a slope with steps, so give it at least two hours.

A big boulder beside Lebong Cart Road, named after Tenzing Norgay, where the mountaineering institute trains climbers. Gombu Rock, named after the climber Nawang Gombu, faces it. You may see students practising on it.

Tip: It is a short photo stop on the way from the zoo, beside a busy road, so stay on the verge.

A cable car that drops from Singamari, above town, down to the Rangeet valley over steep tea gardens. The ride is slow and quiet, with Kanchenjunga ahead on clear days.

Tip: The queue can be long in the holiday season, so count on an hour in all. It stops in heavy rain and fog, so check with the driver that morning.

Set up in 1959 for Tibetans who had fled to India. You can watch carpets being woven and wool being spun and dyed in the workshops, and buy carpets, jackets and handicrafts in the shop.

Tip: Closed on Sundays. Entry is free and photos are usually fine in the workshops, but ask first.